One Hundred and Thirty Miles, Taken Slowly: Driving the Causeway Coastal Route

It's a hundred and thirty miles from Belfast to Derry~Londonderry, which on paper is an afternoon. We've never once managed it in less than three days, and we'd argue that's the whole point of the Causeway Coastal Route.

Belfast, and getting out of it

Start in the city, but start early. Titanic Belfast deserves a half day and it's better before the tour groups land, so we aim to be through the doors when they open and back at the van by lunch. Vans and city centres are never a happy pairing, so if you'd rather not wrestle with it, a night at Beechlawn House Hotel lets you do Belfast properly and pick up the coast road fresh the next morning. We've also used Jordanstown Loughshore Caravan Park as a base on the lough shore — it's near a bus stop and a train station, which matters if one of you fancies a night in town and the other fancies staying put with the kettle on. EV charging nearby too, if you're running electric.

Twenty minutes up the road, Carrickfergus Castle sits square on the water, Norman and unbothered, guarding the lough the way it has for centuries. It's a short stop and a good one. After that the road starts doing what it's famous for: sea on your right, cliffs on your left, and a rhythm that makes you slow down without deciding to.

The Glens, where we always lose a day

Glenarm is the first of the nine Glens of Antrim and it sets the tone — castle walls, a small harbour, a tearoom that's exactly what you want after an hour of driving. The Glenarm Castle Ocean View Pods are our soft option when the weather turns and we've had enough of our own company: hot tub, spa, restaurant on site, WiFi, and they're pet friendly, which rules out the usual argument about the dog.

Push on to Cushendall, a red sandstone village sat where three glens meet. This is where we take the detour inland up Glenariff for the waterfalls. It costs you a couple of hours and a bit of fuel and we've never regretted it — the road inland is a different world from the coast, all wet rock and noise. Come back down to sea level and Ballycastle is waiting: a proper seafront town, the Rathlin Island ferry going out from the harbour, and the best fish and chips on the whole route. That's not a maybe. Build your evening around it.

The famous bit, done on your own terms

Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge needs a time slot booked ahead in summer, so sort that before you leave home rather than standing in the car park feeling daft. Cross it, don't look down, cross back. Then the Giant's Causeway — forty thousand basalt columns and the legend that goes with them. Everyone will tell you to go early and everyone is right. First light beats the coaches by a comfortable margin, and standing on those hexagons with the sea coming in and nobody else about is the single best hour of the trip.

A mile inland, Bushmills is the world's oldest licensed whiskey distillery. Obvious point, but somebody has to drive, so take turns or stay put for the night. Causeway Coast Holiday Park puts you within striking distance of both, with EV charging nearby and a bus stop close by.

Portrush next, and the mood changes completely — two beaches, arcades and golf at Royal Portrush. It's loud and cheerful and a decent antidote to three days of cliffs and silence.

Finishing inside the walls

Derry~Londonderry is the right place to stop driving. It's the only complete walled city in Ireland, so walk the full circuit rather than doing half and turning back. Do it in the rain if you have to. You get the whole city laid out below you and a proper sense of an ending, which a lay-by never gives you.

Two or three days is the standard advice and it works. Four is better. If you've got the time, take five and stop feeling guilty about the ones you skipped — there's always another road trip to plan on the ferry home.